# Sandalwood in Perfume: Indian, Australian and Synthetic Sandalwood Explained

Mahasutra · 2026-10-22

Sandalwood explained: Santalum album vs Australian and other species, santalol content, the Mysore story, synthetic sandalwood, and how to wear it.

Sandalwood is the quiet backbone of perfumery: creamy, soft, milky and warm, it sits under more fragrances than almost any other wood. It is also sacred across South and Southeast Asia, used in temples, prayer beads and carvings. But "sandalwood" on a label can mean several different things. Here is a guide to the species, the chemistry, and why most sandalwood in perfume today isn't from India.

## What sandalwood is

Sandalwood oil is distilled from the heartwood and roots of trees in the genus Santalum. These trees are semi-parasitic: their roots attach to the roots of other plants to draw some of their water and nutrients. The fragrant oil builds up in the heartwood over decades, so trees must be mature, typically 15 years or more, before they are worth harvesting.

## The main types

SpeciesWhere it growsScent

Santalum album (East Indian sandalwood)India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia; now plantation-grown in northern AustraliaThe classic: creamy, milky, soft and long-lasting

Santalum spicatum (Western Australian)Western AustraliaDrier, greener and slightly sharper

Santalum austrocaledonicumNew Caledonia, VanuatuClose to album; rich and creamy

Santalum paniculatumHawaiiRich and creamy; limited supply

"Amyris" or "West Indian sandalwood"CaribbeanNot a true sandalwood; woody and slightly smoky

## What makes sandalwood smell like sandalwood

The key molecules are alpha-santalol and beta-santalol. The international standard for East Indian sandalwood oil, ISO 3518, specifies high levels of both, roughly 41 to 55 per cent alpha-santalol and 16 to 24 per cent beta-santalol. Other species contain less santalol, which is why they smell drier or sharper.

## The Mysore story

For a century, the benchmark was Mysore sandalwood from Karnataka in southern India. Decades of overharvesting, smuggling and disease led to a collapse in supply, and India tightly controls its harvest and trade. The finest old Mysore oil is now rare and very expensive.

Today, much of the world's Santalum album comes from plantations, especially in the Kimberley region of northern Australia. Plantation sandalwood has brought reliable, legally traceable supply back to perfumery, and the quality is now excellent.

## Synthetic sandalwood

Because natural sandalwood is scarce and costly, perfumers also use synthetic sandalwood molecules, with names such as Javanol, Ebanol, Sandalore and Polysantol. These aren't cheap substitutes so much as tools: they add diffusion, strength and consistency, and they reduce pressure on trees. Most modern sandalwood accords combine natural oil with synthetics.

## Sandalwood in our perfumes

Sandalwood runs through the base of almost every Mahasutra fragrance. In Velvet Sutra it is the star: creamy sandalwood with cashmeran, white musk and orris for a soft skin scent. In Trancewood it grounds neroli, magnolia and black tea. In Sacred Embers it meets frankincense and Cambodian oud. It is also one of the active botanicals in our evening Sacred Rest Oil.

## Sandalwood beyond perfume

In Ayurveda and across Asian traditions, sandalwood paste has long been used to cool the skin and calm the mind, and it is central to many religious rituals. As an essential oil it is gentle and well tolerated, used in face oils, meditation blends and evening routines. Research on sandalwood oil in people is limited, so treat it as a calming scent rather than a treatment.

## How to wear sandalwood

- As a base for layering: sandalwood pairs with almost anything: rose, jasmine, citrus, tea, spice, vanilla and oud.

- In hot climates: it is soft rather than heavy, so it works day and night.

- As an oil: its creaminess shines in perfume oils, which keep it close to the skin. See perfume oil versus spray.

For sandalwood's famously costly companion, read what is oud?

## What does sandalwood smell like?
Creamy, milky, soft and warm, with a gentle woody depth that lasts for hours.

## What is the difference between Indian and Australian sandalwood?
Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) is creamier with more santalol; Western Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) is drier and greener. Santalum album is now also plantation-grown in northern Australia.

## Is sandalwood in perfume real?
Often a mix of natural oil and synthetic sandalwood molecules, which add strength and consistency and ease pressure on trees.

## Products mentioned

- [Velvet Sutra](https://mahasutra.co/products/velvet-sutra)
- [Trancewood](https://mahasutra.co/products/trancewood)
- [Sacred Embers](https://mahasutra.co/products/sacred-embers)

## Sources

- ISO 3518: Oil of sandalwood (Santalum album L.)